‘COOK at home with peter gordon’
Tucked in the back of Wimbledon Village’s Oxfam shop, this book was one not easily passed up. Already a long-term fan of Peter Gordon for his cooking, and in possession of a small collection of his books, it was perhaps the personal dedication inside this one that grabbed me by the lols, with its succinct encapsulation of humility and humour – not to mention the hint of some intimacy with (and history for) Margaret – it’s the gift that keeps on giving, and I couldn’t love it more!
The book is Peter’s second, published in 1999, and is devoted to domestic breakfasts and lunches, picnics and BBQ’s, tea times, occasional dinner parties, store cupboards, and leftovers – the kind of food that you wouldn’t find in a restaurant, and that has a decidedly Peter Gordon touch to its flavour ‘pairings’.
Of mixed Scots and Maori heritage, this wholly Kiwi chef came to London in the 1990’s – from New Zealand via Melbourne – to run Notting Hill’s once famous Sugar Club restaurant. Incorporating influences and ingredients culled from his own heritage, travels, and curiosity to learn about different food cultures, in a style that was then known as ‘fusion’, or ‘Pacific Rim’ cuisine, he was a pioneer: instrumental in introducing new audiences to once esoteric ingredients – like pomegranate molasses, Thai fish sauce, and Tamari soy – a softly spoken rockstar chef with an enticingly new way of putting ingredients together.
And once upon a never to be forgotten Radio 4 ‘Woman’s Hour’ segment – while arguing for an acknowledgment of New Zealand provenance against any claims from neighbouring Aussies – he made, in real time, an exceptionally noisy Pavlova (whipping egg whites with an electric whisk for a prolonged period – on live radio – was never anyone’s best idea). The host did her best to cover, losing contact with Peter for much of the middle section as the whipping reached a crescendo, and suggesting ultimately, while trying to claw back the narrative, that this moment might become a ‘radio classic’.
That memorable segment is still available to listen to, with recipe, should anyone want to know how Peter’s mum makes the perfect meringue (and it is a good one) – we tried it, and tested it, exactly as explained in the recipe (down to measuring out the sugar with its ‘just less than a cup’ lack of precision (we went with ‘approx’ 200g) – and it was as good as he said it would be.
Sadly, Peter closed his last London restaurant, Providores and Tapa Room on Marylebone High Street, as the pandemic started, heading back to New Zealand and – perhaps presciently, given the outsize part artisanal bread making was to play in some our lives as the flour ran short and the pandemic took hold – offering pieces of ‘Wayne’, the wonderfully named sourdough starter used in the restaurant, as keepsake to queues of eager fans in the weeks before he left.
Margaret, and Peter, if either of you should be reading, we made the garlic, feta and basil sauce from this book, we had it for lunch with some freshly cooked spaghetti, it was easy, and we loved it.
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